Looking to buy your next car at an auction? There are a few things you need to keep in mind and be prepared for when buying this way. The main thing is to get your head straight. You are trying to save money, right? Don’t get caught up in a bidding war. Know beforehand how much you want to spend and stick to it. Check your emotions at the door so you don’t get carried away. This holds true for all sorts of auctions —real estate, collectables, etc.
What kind of auto auction is this? Police impound? Municipal government surplus? Repossessed? Rental fleet? It’s important to know what sort of life your car has “lived” before you two met. A vehicle used by the police may have seen some rugged action chasing bad guys. And that fancy Mercedes over there could have been the one being chased. Now, if the auction is for repossessed cars that the bank took back from someone who suffered some financial loss, chances are it’s not been “ridden hard and hung up wet.” In any case, you need to inspect it. Here’s what I do:
1. Start at the bottom. Look at the tires—better yet, feel the tread. If there is uneven wear or the tread has a “saw toothed” feel, that may indicate suspension and alignment problems.
2. Look under the engine and the transaxle (on rear wheel drive cars) for any wet, oily drips on the ground. Also look for any crud that's stuck to these areas where there is oily “sweat” road grime coating it. These are from leaky seals and could indicate serious maintenance problems.
3. Stand up (stretch you back) and go to the four corners of the car. Press down firmly on each corner and let go. If the car bounces, you’ll need shock absorbers or struts.
4. Pop the hood. Take a helicopter view of the engine. Look at everything, and if there are any loose wires, corroded connections (battery) frayed electrical tape, cracked “rubber booties” on the spark plugs, ragged belts or dried out, cracked hoses, you should be aware that these things will cost money to repair. Check the oil. If it’s dark and smells burnt, there’s a problem. Check the transmission fluid. It should be a transparent amber color and at the proper level. Check the coolant level and the brake fluid levels If these are not ok, adjust you bid accordingly.
5. Inspect the exterior. Is the paint and shine regular all around the car? No ripples? Is the gap between the doors, hood and trunk even with the body of the car? If it is, good. If it’s not, the car has been hit and it wasn’t repaired properly. Beware.
6. Open the doors—all of them. Listen for squeaks and groans—not good. Check the glass for even the tiniest of cracks and chips. Do the windows roll up and down easily? Try them all.
7. Get in. Is the seat firm and comfortable? Or does it feel like a hippo has been sitting there?
8. Turn on the engine and listen for knocks and noises. Press on the gas. Any vibrations? Noises? Let it idle and look at the exhaust pipe. Any smoke? A little is OK, a lot is not!
9. Check the radio, CD player, cigarette lighter, turn signals, interior lights, head lights, brake lights, and everything else you can that should work from the inside.
10. Get out, shake your head, look disgusted (even if you really like the beast). This last one is to psyche out the other bidders and possibly reduce the competition when the bidding starts.
Take your maximum bid in your head and mentally subtract the estimated cost to repair those problems you even suspect that the car has. Remember that if you can’t drive it, you still are taking a chance on the transmission—a really costly repair. Then subtract half the cost of your estimated repairs again because you underestimated the repair costs—guaranteed. Now you have your maximum bid. Don’t you dare go over it!
For more info on buying (or selling) on auction check these sites.
http://lunmar.bezoogle.com/pp/auto-bargains/
http://autos-at-auction.blogspot.com/